Ten on Tuesday: ten gift ideas for clay fanatics

Christmas music's been playing in certain stores for weeks already, and though some of us might think there's still plenty of time, it's never too early to get started on your holiday shopping.

If you're like me, you have a hard time coming up with gift ideas for most of the people on your list. Here are a few-- well, ten-- suggestions for gifts, if you know someone who can barely leave the polymer clay long enough to scarf down supper.

(Well, if you're reading this, chances are that you are that person glued in front of the clay table, so you might "accidentally" leave this page open for someone else to find. ;o) Or see if it helps you make up your personalized clay-related wish list.)

Ten Gift Ideas (in no particular order) for Clay Fanatics:

Disclaimer: What your clay-loving friend needs will depend on whether s/he is just getting started with polymer clay or is already a confirmed clayaholic. If at all possible, sneak a peek into the recipient's studio/clay closet/etc. to make sure s/he doesn't already have these items before making a purchase. Otherwise, it's always safest to save receipts.

10. Pasta machine
If they don't already have one, they'll probably be thrilled to get one. Possibly of less interest to a sculptor, but it can still be useful for conditioning clay (softening it up/mixing it properly before using it).
Similar items, different price range: Acrylic rods and brayers are cheaper than pasta machines, but they serve a similar purpose. Most people eventually want a pasta machine and a rod or brayer. The pasta machine is the easiest and most precise to use, most of the time, but occasionally, a rod or brayer comes in handy.

9. More clay!
We can always use more clay! Most of us who've been doing this a while prefer a certain brand, and we use more of some colors than others; however, most of us will eventually use it, no matter what color it is. Peek into the clay stash, if possible, so you can see if s/he uses only one brand. Generally speaking, Premo, Kato, and Fimo Classic are more durable than Sculpey III or Fimo Soft, so they're probably safer bets, but everyone has her own personal preference. (Of course, you can always give a gift certificate or cash, if you think s/he'd prefer to choose the brand and colors.) If you're buying the clay in person, give each block a little squeeze to make sure it isn't rock hard. (That might indicate that it's been on the shelf too long and will be difficult to work with.) Be sure to store it in a cool, dry place. Leaving it in a hot car is a definite no-no.

8. A "big ticket item"
Maybe you've heard your clayer talking about things she'd like to have "someday". A few more expensive gifts would be a new oven (a toaster oven or possibly a full-sized oven, if you have the extra room), a rock tumbler, or a buffing wheel. If there's room for a clay studio, maybe she'd like a good quality lamp, a new table, ergonomic chair, or a special storage solution. You may even decide that it's time to buy a new camera (especially useful for people who sell their creations online). For these bigger ticket items, you might want to consider asking for in-put from the clayer herself. It may not be quite the same as surprising her on Christmas morning, but I'm sure she'll be thrilled no matter when she finds out about your generous gift!

7. Guild membership
If your friend is the type who'd enjoy some social interaction with other clayers, you might consider buying him/her a guild membership for a year. I actually haven't checked this out, but I imagine that you can buy a polymer clay guild membership in someone else's name. If not, you could at least see if there's a guild in the area and put the money or check in a pretty card with a homemade "gift certificate".
Similar ideas: Enroll him in a class (if there's a class you know he'd love to take)-- or give him cash for the class/retreat/etc. of his choice. (These can vary widely in price-- anything from $20 for a basic class at a local shop to hundreds of dollars for a multi-day workshop.) Buy her an account at flickr or one of the other online photo-hosting communities. Not only do they provide a place for her to show off all those polymer clay creations she makes, but they're also a fun way to make new friends. (You can use many of these sites for free, too, but there's a limit on how many photos you can put up and how you're allowed to arrange them.)

6. Books (or instructional DVDs)
If you know there's a book or DVD s/he'd like, they make great gifts. There are new books coming out every few months, these days, so if you know your clayer's area of interest (jewelry, sculpture, everything), you can be fairly certain of pleasing with a freshly-published book. If you're not sure which books s/he already has, you might consider a gift certificate to a favorite bookshop (or cash with a "choose a new book for yourself" note).

5. Magazine subscription
There's currently only one magazine devoted entirely to polymer clay (and the occasional air-dry clay project), and that's Polymer Cafe. This is a nice gift, if you know that s/he isn't already a subscriber. A few other magazines also feature polymer clay-related projects on a regular basis. Look here for more information: http://www.polymerclayweb.com/magazines.asp

4. "Clay Coupons"
Remember making this type of coupon for your mom on Mother's Day? "This coupon is good for one breakfast in bed"-- that kind of thing? Well, why not do something similar for your clay-obsessed loved one? This is a great idea-- not just for children, but for anyone whose wallet is going through a lean period. The coupons will of course vary based on your circumstances. Tailor them specifically to your loved one's needs. If the recipient is a busy mom who barely has time to clay these days, give her a few coupons that entitle her to a carefree hour (or two-- or whatever) to spend with the clay while you keep the kids occupied elsewhere. Maybe one coupon could entitle her to a clay-friend (i.e. you) for an hour (unless, of course, the clay is her escape from the rest of you crazy people (g)). Or-- and this one would be worth gold to many of us!-- make a couple of coupons that volunteer your services as a bead-sander. Consider one that reads, "This coupon is good for one full meal prepared while you play with clay". . . and so on! Have fun with it-- but remember, if you make the coupon, you should be prepared to ante up-- cheerfully, or it's no good. ;o)

3. "Crossover" tools or supplies
If you know that your friend doesn't have a particular tool (say, a wavy blade or some shape cutters), by all means, go for it! (You can read about many polymer clay-related tools here: http://www.polymerclayweb.com/tools.asp.) Better yet, there are some tools and supplies that serve double duty. That is, they can be used for polymer clay, but also with another hobby or medium. For instance, stamps are great for polymer clay, but you can use them for scrapbooking, card-making, and other hobbies, as well. Linoleum-carving tools will carve through polymer clay in addition to linoleum and other stamp-making materials. If you know that the recipient of your gift loves paper crafts and polymer clay, some nice stamps might be just the thing that she can use in both hobbies, while the linoleum cutters would be ideal for someone who'd like to try making her own stamps. Someone who makes polymer clay jewelry might like some jewelry-making tools or a selection of lovely beads or findings, which can also be used to create non-polymer jewelry. Keeping all of your friend's crafty interests in mind might help you narrow down your list of gift possibilities.

2. "Stocking stuffer" goodies
You know your "target" better than I do, so you'll have to make a judgment call-- but many of us who make jewelry with polymer clay are absolutely addicted to all the "extras" that we can work into our polymer clay designs. Paints, glitter, mica powder... Embossing powder, metal leaf, metallic foil... Leafing pens, ink (both in ink pads and in re-inker bottles)-- and the list goes on. If you think your friend's a magpie (someone who loves sparkly, glittery things), you can find some wonderful "stocking stuffer" size gifts in the glitter and embossing powder section of the craft store. (Look in the stamp section for embossing powder. Sometimes there will be glitter there, too. Otherwise, check out the fabric-decorating aisle for the high-quality glitter that is sure to work well with polymer clay. Cheap metal glitter isn't a good idea; polyester's better.) For more information on these types of things (and specific brands that are proven to work with polymer clay), look here: http://www.polymerclayweb.com/materials.asp

1. Cash! (Or, if you insist, a gift certificate...)
I've mentioned this one a few times already, but it's worth saying again. After all, who wouldn't like to go on a little shopping spree?! Cash is really best, since your friend can use it absolutely anywhere, from an Internet-based shop that specializes in clay-- to the local bookshop-- or even a hardware store, if it's time to finally get that clay-related power tool she's been dreaming of. However, if you're convinced that cash is too impersonal, a gift certificate to her favorite craft/art-supply store will be more than welcome. We crafters can always find something we'd love to have from those places! (g)


So, that's my list of suggestions. I hope it's given you a few ideas or helped you come up with some of your own. If you're still feeling terribly confused or uncertain, maybe you could ask for a wish list. Many of us have such extensive ones that we'll still be surprised, even if someone shops from the list! ;o)

Oh, and when you're out shopping, don't forget to check out sales and coupons. Get the most for your money! Happy shopping! :o)

Top Ten Tuesday: top ten polymer clay tools

Because I'm feeling lazy today (and because I have a zillion things to do besides blog, right now), I'm choosing an easy one. Here's a list of. . .

My Top Ten Favorite Polymer Clay Tools
(in no particular order)

1. Pasta Machine-- Not exactly original, but true. Before I had one, I wasn't sure I really wanted one, but it's a wonderful time-saver. (Now I'm even daydreaming about getting another one so that I can reserve one for translucent clay and avoid having to clean a machine every time I want to use translucent clay.) Making uniform sheets of clay (in a variety of thicknesses) is so easy with one of these things!
   
2. Needle Tool-- You really have no choice; if you're going to make beads, you need a needle tool of some kind, be it store-bought or just a regular sewing needle baked into some scrap clay. Needle tools aren't restricted to making stringing holes, either. I use mine for stippling texture into clay, drawing lines in the clay, and so on.
   
3. Darning Needle-- At least I think that's what it's called... Back when I was "setting up house", I bought some cheap packs of needles. Some of them were odd shapes that I've never found much use for-- but one of them was a nice, fat, fairly blunt needle that I've found plenty of uses for-- with polymer clay. It's great for making larger bead holes, smoothing seams (sometimes), and more.
   
4. Craft Knives and Tissue Blades-- I'm cheating a bit by lumping these two together, but they perform very similar duties. However, I do suggest getting them both, if you haven't already. The tissue blade, while essential to cutting thin slices (as in mokume gane) and very useful for making long, straight cuts, is a bit unwieldy in certain other circumstances. For cutting off small bits of clay and other more delicate tasks, I constantly reach for my craft knife. I've also found the "end" of my craft knife (the end without the blade in it) to be very useful for smoothing seams and blending away marks in the clay.
   
5. Shape Cutters-- I get the impression that some people think that using shape cutters is a sin. (g) Or at least that anyone who uses a shape cutter must have limited artistic skill. These days, if something is referred to as "cookie-cutter"-- cookie-cutter houses, for instance-- it's *not* a "good thing". Well, I for one will admit to a fondness for shape cutters. They're not perfect for everything-- and we shouldn't let them limit us ("I can't make an octagon! I don't have a cutter in that shape!"-- but they're very useful, and sometimes they cut down on the "busy work" side of working with clay. Personally, I love them and will be happy to expand my collection. ;o)
   
6. Ball Stylus-- This tool, I'll admit, has a somewhat limited range of uses, but I've found several already, and will probably come across more in the future. I use a ball stylus to adhere small balls of clay in an "appliqué" technique. (See the marble picture pendant tutorial here for a visual aid.) You can use them any time you need to make a void or indentation-- as when making faux stone (Faux Lava Rock Tutorial) or when making mokume gane. I use them sometimes to add texture to the clay. Stipple them over the clay randomly or place them in a pattern for a "polka-dot" effect. You can also use them to apply nice dots of paint.
   
7. Ceramic Tiles-- I don't know if many people count a tile as a tool, but I do. I have built up a small collection of tiles-- multiple large ones that I leave on my clay table for a safe work surface (because I can't help myself-- I always have several projects out "in progress"), one lovely medium-sized one that just happens to fit perfectly in my toaster oven (and which I leave there most of the time, to help regulate the temperature), and most recently a few small tiles that I think will be useful for working on and popping directly int the oven. (Very) lightly textured tiles may be best for working on, as they make it a bit easier to lift the clay when it's time to move it. Completely smooth ones are useful for baking on when you want a glassy finish on the bottom of your work (as with Donna Kato's faux opal technique).
   
8. Drinking Straws-- Save them when you get fast food, because different restaurants use different sizes of straws. Cut them into shorter lengths, because this makes it easier to remove clay that gets stuck in them. (It also gives you 4 or more cutters per straw.) I use them for making "little bites" in my mini foods. I also like them for punching out holes in pendants. Obviously, they can also be used for cutting tiny circles. If you find one straw that is just slightly smaller in diameter than another, you can put one inside the other and use it as a "plunger" to help push the clay out of the straw. (I can't remember where I read that, or I'd give credit... I just tried it recently. It works, but it does leave a slight circular mark where the "plunger-straw" touches the clay-- or at least it did for me, but it's September in Alabama, and I use soft Premo clay, so it may be less of a problem for others or in a cooler time of the year.)
9. Texture Sheets-- Again, this is something I wasn't even sure I wanted, at first, but I've had a lot of fun with them. I like the Shade-Tex sheets and similar products, because they're so affordable-- much cheaper than buying large rubber stamps. They have the added advantage that you can feed them through the pasta machine with the clay to be textured. Personally, I haven't done that, preferring instead to just roll over the sheet with a brayer or press it down by hand, but maybe I'll give it a try sometime. (And when I do, I'll probably wonder why I haven't been doing it all along... (g))
   
10. Found Texture Tools-- This one really deserves a "Top Ten" all of its own, so for now, I'll just list one-- an old toothbrush. I'd been saving all our old toothbrushes for a few years because I knew that they had uses in cleaning around the house. (They're great for getting in all those little nooks and crannies that a larger scrub brush can't reach. I also keep one in the laundry room for working stain removers into fabrics.) Now, I have a few in the clay room. You can get quite a few different looks from one toothbrush, just by varying the degree of pressure you apply, how many "passes" you make over area, whether you stipple or brush, and so on. And best of all, it's absolutely free. You can't beat that! ;o)
    

Top Ten Tuesday: top ten ways to reduce fingerprints in clay

Unwanted fingerprints are a huge annoyance to many clayers. Our hands are our most valuable and versatile tools, but they also bear those pesky loops and whorls that help identify us as unique beings-- marks that can mar the smooth finish of our creations.

One school of thought suggests that the occasional fingerprint is nothing to worry about. Our work is done by hand, so why not celebrate that fact and leave our imprint-- literally-- on what we make?

However, there are still many who prefer to disguise or remove fingerprints. The following is a sampling of the techniques polymer artists employ in this pursuit.

Top Ten Ways to Reduce Fingerprints in Clay:
(In no particular order, despite the whole "top ten" thing...)

1. Wear gloves.
If you can stand wearing gloves, they'll help you cut down on fingerprints. Even if you don't wish to wear them the whole time, you can still slip them on for last few steps before curing your project. A good, tight fit is preferable, as any looseness in the fingertips can cause crease marks in the clay, which can be just as frustrating as the fingerprints! Many people use latex gloves. Others, worried about developing a latex allergy, prefer vinyl, nitrile, or other materials. If you absolutely cannot stand the feeling of gloves, you might want to try finger cots, which fit over fingers individually.

2. Smoothen your fingers.
If you simply aren't going to use gloves, no matter what, you can still improve matters by smoothening your hands. Try an exfoliating scrub to gently remove dead skin every few days. Work moisturizing hand lotions into your daily routine. Lotions keep your hands soft, which can reduce their "grab" on the clay.

3. Use firm clay.
Firmer brands of clay tend to take fingerprints less readily than soft brands. Fimo Classic and Kato are two of the better clays for avoiding fingerprints-- particularly if you have warm hands or live in a warm climate. You can also try leaching very soft clay to increase its firmness to some degree.

4. Keep things cool.
The warmer the clay and your hands are, the more fingerprints you'll leave. For this reason, it's a good idea to allow the clay to sit a while before you do the final smoothing of your work. If possible, you might even put the clay into the refrigerator to chill. For those with warm hands, try cooling them in a bowl of ice water (or with an ice pack, etc.) before putting on the final touches.

5. "Pet" away fingerprints.
Prior to curing, try to pet away as many fingerprints and other marks as possible. Use a light touch, and experiment with short, soft strokes and circular motions to find what works best for you. Some artists dip their fingertips in water or powder to aid in the smoothing.

6. Burnish away fingerprints.
You can burnish fingerprints away with a variety of tools-- anything from an agate burnishing tool or clay shaper tool to a simple piece of deli paper, plastic wrap and bags, or baking parchment. Gently rub the burnishing tool in small circles over the clay to smooth away imperfections. Put the paper or plastic against the clay (being careful to avoid creases) and rub your finger against the piece "through" the paper.

7. "Brush down" the clay.
This technique is particularly popular among sculptors. Brush (or wipe) down your piece just before curing, using any of a variety of materials, including everything from a mixture of diluent and rubbing alcohol to lighter fluid or acetone. A couple other suggestions are baby oil and waterless hand cleanser, which consists largely of alcohol. (You can read more about brushing down on this page of Glass Attic: Sculpture.)

8. Apply texture.
For certain applications, the best approach may be to remember the old saying, "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em!" That is, rather than trying to remove all vestiges of your fingerprints, go the other way and add texture to the clay. Make polymer clay's natural tendency to accept texture work for you. Mask undesired texture by imprinting a new texture on top of it. Popular choices for this technique include sandpaper, salt (which can be dissolved away with water after curing), brush bristles, and heavily textured fabric, but a variety of other materials will also work.

9. Look, don't touch. ;o)
Be careful about handling clay that's still warm from the oven or fresh from the buffing wheel. In this warm state, even cured clay can take a fingerprint (and leave you baffled when you later discover it).

10. Remove prints after baking.
For those times when you can't avoid leaving fingerprints, you can always remove them after curing. Not many of us enjoy sanding, but there's no arguing with the results. In addition to the usual wet/dry sandpaper most clayers use, you may want to look into the possibility of trying another material or sanding technique. Some people pawn the task off on their rock tumblers (using bits of sandpaper instead of the abrasive materials required for polishing stones). Others swear by polishing papers, sanding sponges, emery boards-- even jeweler's files. (You can read more about sanding on Polymer Clay Web and Glass Attic.)


With these tips in mind, you should be well on your way to avoiding-- or at least removing-- fingerprints. Unless, of course, you choose to leave your mark wherever it may fall. ;o)

Top Ten on Tuesday -- Tips for Using Liquid Clay with Miniature Foods

Hey there! I'm back home after a long vacation. Not quite back in the groove, yet, but I'm getting there. ;o) My next "assignment" is getting back into the habit of blogging, so here goes!

I've suggested before that someone interested in making realistic miniature foods (out of polymer clay, at least) really ought to get some liquid clay and play around with it. Today, I'll offer a few insights that I've gathered so far in my own experiments with liquid clay in mini-making.

Top Ten Tips for Using Liquid Clay with Miniature Foods
(in no particular order)

1. Often, when working with teensy things, you'll find it helpful to cure them in stages. (That way, you'll have something to hold on to without constantly worrying about leaving fingerprints or completely squashing your carefully sculpted work.) A dab of liquid clay (hereafter shortened to "LC") acts as a glue between cured and raw clay, when you're ready to continue working on a partially cured piece.

2. Adding a little mica powder (pearl is a good all-around choice, but others can work, too, depending on the application) lends a slight sparkle to your LC mixes. This shimmer can be useful in duplicating the appearance of sugary glazes, certain gravies, and so on.

3. Know the properties of different brands of LC and use them to your advantage. Kato and Fimo liquids are clearer than TLS, so use them when you need only the slightest hint of color.

4. Another hint related to the one above-- For more transparent food items (glazes, translucent syrups, jams), tint your LC with alcohol ink, when possible. This yields more transparent colors. (Obviously, you'll also want to use a brand of LC that cures clearly-- Kato or Fimo.)

5. For opaque food items (chocolate sauce, nacho cheese), try oil paint or powdered pigments to add more opaque color. (In this case, you can use any brand of LC-- clarity is not an issue.)

6. While I generally prefer to use cheap mineral oil for mixing my icings, you can always use LC for that, too. Just mix a few drops into regular clay of the color you'd like your icing to be. Continue mixing and adding LC (a drop or two at a time, as needed) until you like the consistency of the mix. (If you get the mix too sticky, you can thicken it back up by adding more regular clay to the mix.)

7. Don't forget that you can combine regular clay and LC. A gravy made of LC can be poured over tiny "meat and veggies" (bits of regular clay in the right shapes, sizes, and colors) to make a convincing bowl of "stew". (Obviously, in this case, you'd want to use your most translucent LC and coloring agent, or else you may not see much of your veggies through the gravy, and instead of "stew", you'll get "weird, bumpy brown stuff". ;o)

8. Pay attention to sheen. Is the food you're imitating matte or glossy? TLS cures to a more matte finish than Kato or Fimo liquids. If Kato is cured at a higher temperature (or hit briefly with a heat gun), it takes on a higher gloss. (Of course, you can always apply the pc-friendly finish of your choice, once a piece is cured.)

9. If you want a "thick shine" on a piece-- more dimension than you can get with Varathane or Future-- you might try a clear brand (Kato or Fimo) of LC. This could be useful for the suggestion of a little water on top of a pot of veggies, for instance. (You could also use epoxy resin for this, but if you're like me, you may prefer to stick with clay as much as possible. I am going to try resin, one of these days, but honestly, I'm a little scared of the stuff. (g))

10. Don't forget your artist's pastels (or other powdered pigments). Those same powders that make your loaves of bread brown so realistically can be applied to cured LC to add a touch of toastiness. (You'll need to seal the powders in with a pc-friendly finish, if the piece will be handled or worn, as in jewelry.)

~ * ~ * ~ * ~

I am becoming more and more enamored of liquid clay-- not only for miniature-making, but in other polymer clay projects, as well. The more I see of the stuff, the more amazed I am by the possibilities.

Top Ten Tuesday: top ten tips for making polymer clay jewelry

Though there are more and more artists and hobbyists using polymer clay for an increasing number of non-jewelry applications (home decor, miniatures, evening bags, etc.) , beads, pendants and other "jewelry bits" remain very popular.

I haven't done any research as to why this is, but I think it has something to do with the fact that jewelry is wearable art. It's easier to show off a necklace to a bunch of people than, say, a mask or a vase. When you wear your own handmade jewelry, you never know when you might have someone say, "Wow, what a great pin! Where'd you get that?!" (And then, of course, you proudly-- or modestly-- admit that, in fact, you made it yourself. (g))

For many of us jewelry-makers, the main reason we do it is that it's lots of fun. Maybe you'd like to join us. :o) If you're just starting out-- new to polymer clay jewelry-making-- here are a few tips to help guide you along your way:

Top Ten Tips for Making Polymer Clay Jewelry:

(This week, I've decided not to "count down" from 10 to 1, but just to put the tips in semi-logical order. (g))

1. Gather inspiration.
Keep an inspiration notebook, bulletin board, blog, etc.-- just a place where you can gather and store magazine photos, jotted ideas, print-outs, paint chips, and anything else that inspires you, be it designs, color combos, or polymer clay techniques. Collect links to useful websites, too-- not only clay-related sites, but also general jewelry-making sites.

2. Adapt designs to polymer clay.
When looking through magazines, books, and websites for jewelry patterns and ideas, don't be discouraged if there aren't many designed specifically for polymer clay. Instead, consider how you can adapt the designs to suit your polymer clay beads, pendants, etc. Remember, since you make the beads, you can always tailor them to certain specifications of size, shape and color to fit a design you admire.

3. Plan ahead.
Make sketches of what you want your piece of jewelry to look like-- or at least "think out" the design-- so you'll know how many beads you need, what shapes and colors they should be, etc. (Sometimes it's fun to just make the beads first and design the jewelry around them later, but if you work this way you're more likely to find that you don't have enough beads.)

4. Make extras.
Whenever possible, make extra beads. You never know when one will have a flaw or be lost. With a few back-up beads, you can proceed without having to go back and try to duplicate the lost bead. Leftovers make lovely earrings, or save them to use in a later project that calls for mixed beads.

5. Mix media.
Consider combining time-intensive polymer clay beads with store-bought glass, acrylic, metal, and other types of beads. If you're careful in your selection, you'll not only make the polymer clay beads go further, but you'll also add attractive accents to your handmade beauties.

6. Coordinate the colors.
When ordering beads online or through catalogs, you'll soon find that catalogs (whether online or in print) don't always represent colors accurately. It's best to order beads early and have them in hand before making the polymer clay components of the design. Either that, or take your finished polymer beads/pendants to the bead store with you, so you can be sure to get a good color combination.

7. Weigh your options.
Polymer clay is relatively lightweight, but for very large beads or pendants, consider using an aluminum foil core. This option also uses less clay, which leaves more for other projects.

8. String them along.
Your beads, that is. ;o) Give some thought to stringing materials for necklaces, bracelets and anklets. Choose a stringing material that's sturdy enough to support the weight of your beads and/or pendant. Also keep in mind how the look and texture of the stringing material will work into your design-- especially important in pieces with lengths of exposed string/cord/etc. For example, large beads or pendants generally look best on (and need the extra support of) thicker stringing materials, such as leather thong or heavy rubber cord. More delicate beads probably won't even fit over leather cording and are better suited to tigertail or a thinner cord.

9. Find some findings.
Findings (the metal "bits and pieces" of jewelry, such a ear wires, clasps, jump rings, and eye pins) are made from a variety of metals-- everything from cheap base metal to pricier silver and gold. You can buy them in shops or online-- or even make many of them yourself, from a spool of wire. When you're still learning, it's probably best to use a cheaper material, but eventually, you may want to upgrade to a finer metal. If cost is an issue, you can always reserve the silver findings for your very best work.

10. Get the tools of the trade.
All the sterling silver findings in the world aren't going to do you much good if you don't have the proper tools to use with them. (Try opening and closing a jump ring neatly with your bare hands. Just try it. I dare ya. ;o)) It takes a little time-- time you'd probably rather be spending at your clay table-- but learning how to use jewelry-making tools is an important step in making your own jewelry. Just a few tools (wire cutters, flat-nose pliers, and round-nose pliers) are absolutely required for most jewelry-making, though there are others (split-ring pliers, crimping tool, bead reamer, etc.) that are also useful, in specific situations. If you can master a handful of simple techniques with these tools, you'll be able to follow almost any jewelry design you can find. Once you've gathered the "absolutely necessary" tools, there are a few ways to learn to use them. Books and jewelry-design magazines (on loan from the library or bought), Internet tutorials, videos, classes at your local bead or craft store, a crafty friend with beading know-how-- all are possible ways to learn the basics.


There's something very satisfying about taking a few unfinished materials and turning them into something that you can be proud to wear or give as a gift. Obviously, the most masterful designs are the result of time, practice, and skill (not to mention natural talent), but even a novice can achieve something attractive with a few hours of work. And with every bead you form and string, you're improving your technique-- while having fun!

Top Ten Tuesday - top ten ways to use mica powders with polymer clay

Mica powders are very popular with clayers-- one of the top few "extra" materials most of us buy, I'd say. It's no wonder, considering how many things you can do with them and the way that they can turn a ho-hum piece into something shimmering and beautiful.

Top Ten Ways to Use Mica Powders with Polymer Clay:

10. Use it with a stencil.
Place a bought (usually in the paint section of craft stores), found (such as a paper doily), or homemade (cut from cardstock or a thin sheet of plastic) stencil over a piece of clay. (This technique works most easily on flat projects.) Gently tap mica powders (as many as you like) onto the exposed clay. Carefully lift stencil to reveal your pattern.

9. Make a sparkling glaze.
Mix a little mica powder into a small amount of polymer-friendly finish (Future or Varathane) or acrylic medium. (You can mix some in a painter's palette, if you need very little, or use a small paint pot or film canister if you want to make enough to save for another time.) Thin with water to reach desired consistency. Apply over plain or decorated cured polymer clay pieces for an extra touch of sparkle.

8. Crackle it over raw clay.
In order to crackle mica powders, you'll need to mix them into an acrylic medium or polymer-friendly finish. Future Floor Wax works well for this. Mix it (as described above), then paint it onto a sheet of raw polymer clay. Allow the finish to dry, then feed through the pasta machine or roll with a brayer or acrylic rod to produce the crackling effect.

7. Use it in mokume gane.
As described in last week's Top Ten Tuesday, you can use mica powders in mokume gane in a couple of ways. Either apply occasional dabs of it to painted or plain polymer clay sheets, or mix it into Future (etc.) and paint it onto the sheets.

6. Salvage ugly scrap clay.
An unattractive mix of scrap clay (or a color mix gone wrong) can take on a whole new life with an application of mica powder. Just shape the clay and apply the powders before curing. Be aware that certain colors (such as the interference colors) may not completely mask the color of the underlying clay. If in doubt, experiment with a tiny bit of clay and powder.

5. Create faux effects.
Mica powders are useful in a number of faux effects. Metal colors (such as silver or bronze) create an instant appearance of metal. A mix of colors (blue, purple, pink, gold, etc.) "splotchily" blended on black clay imitates the look of raku. Pearl powders make. . . well, pearls. ;o) A touch of these sparkling powders lends a realistic look in a number of faux stone mixes.

4. Tint liquid polymer clay.
Translucent liquid clay can be tinted in a few different ways. Using mica powders as part or all of the colorant gives it a subtle shimmer that's lovely.

3. Tint solid translucent clay.
Translucent clay tinted with mica powders can seem almost to softly glow. Use this mixture "as is" or make a Skinner Blend between two mica-tinted bodies of clay for a ravishing effect.

2. Cover the exterior of a piece.
Using one color or as many as you like, cover an entire piece with mica powders. If you want texture, apply the powder to both the clay and the stamp or texture sheet prior to making the impression. If any portion of the clay remains unpowdered, fill in those spots with the aid of a paintbrush.

1. Highlight textured clay.
For a different look from the "all over sparkle", texture the clay first, then apply mica powders (in however many colors you want) to only the raised portions of the pattern or texture, allowing the clay color to remain visible in the impressions. This can give the appearance of antiqued metal.

Remember: Most mica powders require a coat of polymer-friendly finish (such as Future or Varathane) to prevent the powder from rubbing away-- particularly if the piece will be worn or handled. If you've mixed the powders into Future, Varathane, or another polymer-friendly finish, the extra coat is unneccessary, unless you want more layers for protection or added shine.

Top Ten Tuesday: top ten products to add to mokume gane

I've taken it into my polymer-crazed head to post a weekly feature here called "Top Ten Tuesday". (We'll see how long this lasts. . . (g)) Every Tuesday, I'll focus on a different clay-related topic. Since this is the inaugural list, I thought I'd go easy on myself and choose an easy one. ;o)

Top Ten Products to Add to Mokume Gane (and Why):

10. Nothing
No, seriously. You can get some gorgeous mokume gane effects with nothing but polymer clay. Try mg with your own special mixes of mica clay and translucent, clay, too. This style of mg looks best, imho, when patterned with deeply-etched stamps. Check out some of what Nan Roche has done with this technique, if you're seeking some mg inspiration.

9. Glitter
If you're a sucker for that glitzy glittered look, why not sprinkle a little into your next batch of mg? There are a couple of ways you can apply it. Sprinkle it over a sheet of translucent clay, if you want just a little. (Putting too much will prevent the sheets of clay from adhering properly.) If you want more, use the glitter as an inclusion in some translucent clay, then roll that into a sheet for the mg block. Very fine glitter will work better than larger-scale glitter, and polyester or glass glitters perform best during the curing process. (Metal glitters can distort in the heat, with unattractive results.) You could also try a thin application of glitter paint on translucent clay.

8. Metallic Foil
Mylar-backed metallic foils (as opposed to real metal leaf) can be used with mokume gane. One example of this material is the line produced by Jones Tones. To use metallic foil in mg, just burnish it onto a sheet of translucent clay, pull off the clear backing, and use either as is or after crackling the foil by feeding the sheet through the pasta machine. Metallic foil comes in a variety of colors, patterns, and "effects" (such as oil slick, rainbow, etc.), so there are lots of possibilities with this product. (The downside is that some foils can be difficult to apply to clay.)

7. Lumiere Metallic Paints
Lumiere paints (from Jacquard) come in a gorgeous array of metallic colors that can be mixed to create still more colors. This paint tends to stretch with the clay-- not crackle. There are two ways to approach this property. First, you can embrace it and not worry about crackling. However, if you've got your heart set on crazing, you can dilute Lumiere paint with water-- up to a 1:1 ratio. The addition of the water improves the "cracklability" of the paint. Apply a thin coat of paint to a sheet of translucent clay. Once it's dried, feed this through the pasta machine or roll it with an acrylic rod to create crackle (or not, depending on the look you want).

6. Posh Metallic Inkabilities
Ranger's Posh Metallic Inkabilities come in two sets. Luminous Metallics (the one I own) contains a rainbow of six colorful metallic inks (blue, pink, teal, violet, green, and red), while the Precious Metals set comes with six "metal colors" (silver, copper, charcoal, rich gold, white pearl, and bronze). These inks come in .25 ounce needlepoint applicators and were originally designed for use with stamping, but they work great with polymer clay, too. Gorgeous metallic colors-- and they crackle, too. Just drop a tiny bit onto your sheet of translucent clay, spread it around with a brush, let it dry, and crackle away.

5. Mica Powders
Mica powders, such as Jacquard's Pearl-Ex line, are popular with polymer clay artists, because they have a number of applications. There are a couple of ways to apply them to mokume gane, as well. First, you can put little dabs of them here and there over a sheet of (painted or unpainted) polymer clay. (Be careful not to put too much, as this will prevent the sheets of clay from adhering to one another.) Another way to incorporate these sparkling colors into mokume gane is to mix them with an acrylic base of some sort. Future Floor Finish works well. Just mix a bit of powder into a few drops of Future until you get a nice paint-like consistency. Apply and crackle (or not, as you like).

4. Metallic Acrylic Paints
A number of brands of acrylic paint include metallic and iridescent colors in their lines. By all means, try what you already have, but if you're still building your stock of art supplies, be aware that you don't have to spend a great deal of money on metallic paints. Every brand behaves a bit differently-- and often there are variations within a brand, from color to color-- but often the cheaper "craft paints" work just as well, if not better than, the more expensive artist-grade paint, when it comes to crackling. My personal stock includes some FolkArt Metallics (from Plaid), some Dazzling Metallics (from DecoArt), and a couple of Anita's Metallics. All will work with polymer clay mokume gane. You'll have to experiment to see which crackle best to your liking, but even those that don't crackle as well can still be very pretty in mokume gane (as well as in other polymer clay applications, such as antiquing and dry-brushing).

3. Alcohol Inks
For a dash of transparent color, you needn't look further than alcohol inks. Alcohol inks have a number of uses with polymer clay, and at least a few of them apply to mokume gane. Jacquard's Pinata Colors come in 17 bold colors, while Ranger's Adirondack Alcohol Inks are available in 24 more subtle, earthy tones. Both lines are beautiful and can be used interchangeably. Here are just a few ways to use them with mg (and you can probably come up with more): First, drop a bit on a sheet of translucent clay and use a brush to cover the whole surface. (You can use straight ink for darker color or dilute it with alcohol or extender for a watercolor effect.) You'll be able to see through this layer of color, in the finished pieces. Second, drop the inks onto metal leaf in order to colorize it. Leave the drops as spatters of color or blend them over the whole surface. You'll be able to see through the color to the metallic sparkle of the leaf. Third, apply a drop or two to some polymer clay. When the ink is dry (after 15 - 30 minutes), condition the clay until the color is distributed through it (either evenly or in a marbled pattern, as you wish). Use this clay as a sheet in your mg stack. It will be colored, but still somewhat translucent.

2. Daler-Rowney Pearlescent Liquid Acrylic Inks
Pearlescent Liquid Acrylic Inks (from Daler-Rowney) are a favorite product of many people, including artist Allison Ingham, who uses them to achieve attractive crazing in her polymer clay work. They come in a range of lovely colors, go on smoothly, and crackle beautifully. I've read that the best way to apply them for optimum crackle is to not shake the bottle, but to drag up the thicker "dregs" from the bottom of the bottle and paint with those. Personally, I do shake the bottle and just dip from the top, and I've been happy with the results I've gotten. Try both methods and see which you prefer.

1. Metal Leaf
It's the classic mokume gane addition, and for a very good reason: combined with delicately tinted translucent clay, it creates an absolutely gorgeous effect. Metal leaf adheres easily to polymer clay and crackles easily. The gossamer shimmer of crackled sheets of real metal-- it's the ultimate draw for those of us with inner magpies. Lindley Haunani is credited with pioneering this style of mg. For a slightly different look, apply metal leaft to sheets of untinted translucent clay. Slices from the mg loaf can then be applied to base clay in any color(s) you want. In this ways, you can make mg beads, pens, etc. in a variety of colors, all from one batch.

The Final Word on MG-Related Products:
Whatever you put in your mokume gane, whether you like to "mix it up" and put a little bit of everything in there or your style is more restrained and classic, don't be afraid to try something new. There's no telling what we'll be adding to mokume gane five or ten years from now, and maybe you'll be the one who discovers the next great product!